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Journal Articles Water Waves Year : 2019

Wave Kinematics in a Two-Dimensional Plunging Breaker


In the wake of theoretical, numerical and experimental advances by a large number of contributors, we revisit here some aspects of the fluid kinematics in a two-dimensional plunging breaker occurring in shallow water. In particular, we propose a simplified identification of the velocity distribution at the free surface in terms of the velocity at some characteristic points. We can then simply explain the reasons for which the velocity is maximum inside the barrel at its roof. We also show that the relative velocity field calculated in a coordinate system centered to a point where the velocity is maximum may have a possible analytic representation.
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hal-02304691 , version 1 (17-09-2021)





Yves-Marie Scolan, Pierre-Michel Guilcher. Wave Kinematics in a Two-Dimensional Plunging Breaker. Water Waves, 2019, 2 (2), pp.185-206. ⟨10.1007/s42286-019-00013-w⟩. ⟨hal-02304691⟩
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